Visiting The Wagah Border Ceremony From Pakistan And India

What you need to know when visiting Wagah Ceremony from Pakistan India.  Part Dancing With The Stars and part Battle Rap, the Wagah-Attari border ceremony exceeded my high expectations. The Wagah-Attari border is currently the only open land border crossing between India and Pakistan, two long-term rivals ever since their independence in 1947. It takes place in the state of Punjab, which was bisected in the partition of India in 1947 and created the independent countries of Pakistan and India. This ceremony has taken place daily to mark the closing of the border since 1959.

This event has been very high on my personal bucketlist, and I finally was able to schedule a visit. I witnessed the ceremony twice from the Indian side and once from the Pakistani side. This was a true, high-energy event that I found to be unique.

Two semi-circle, open stadiums face each other, with a double, black iron gate separating the two countries. The Indian stadium clearly dwarfs the Pakistani stadium. The ceremony which takes place before sunset and is overflowing with sky-high leg-kicks, moustache twisting, incessant yelling of zindabad (long live), and so much more. It is an incredible amount of fun.

The Indian Side

I left Amritsar for the 45-minute (30 km) ride in my taxi on the Grand Trunk Road and arrived at the border. I hopped out of the taxi and slid into a nearby waiting rickshaw. My driver pedaled vigorously in the 110 F heat for a kilometer, which I was too lazy to walk. A separate entrance is set up for foreigners. Hundreds of Indians streamed into their own separate entrance. I produced my passport and I was allowed entry. I then passed a security check. Cameras are allowed, but do not bring a bag.

I strolled down a road with the Indian stadium in the near distance. A hulking, tan stadium festooned with Mughal arches stood sentry. I entered the large archway and my senses were assaulted (in a good way). The music was blaring, and the stadium was filled with revved up Indians already cheering, yelling, and dancing. Straight ahead, I stared into adjacent Pakistan. A portrait of Ali Jinnah, the father of Pakistan, was centered, overlooking the border. I felt like we were locking eyes.

I was greeted with smiles and cheers by the colorfully dressed crowd. Thumbs-up were produced and requests for photos were made. Indian flags were enthusiastically waved.

A soldier from the Indian Border Security forces in a sharp, tan uniform pointed me to my seat. Foreigners sit in the VIP section of the stadium. These seats are the closest to the Pakistani side and allow a bird’s eye view of the demarcation of the border. A handful of foreigners rested in their plastic seats, waving off the oppressive heat. Vendors sold water, snacks, and caps. It was like a ball game, except the teams were nuclear armed rivals.

Some fans were handed flags and were encouraged to pump up the crowd.

As the music blasts from both sides of the border, the festivities begin. Scores and scores of women descended to the Grand Trunk Road for an ad hoc, enthusiastic dance. A rainbow swirl of saris mesh with wide grins.

Next up, soldiers produced the Indian flag as well as the Border Security flag to the hollers of the crowd.

Two bomb sniffing dogs took a spin and a bow to the delight of the audience.

Then two bad-ass, special-forces-like soldiers march down the road and took their position at the border gate. Their kits are complete with dark sunglasses, black bandanas, and laced up black boots.

And then I noted the rock stars of the day. A group of towering Indian soldiers dressed in tan uniforms have taken position on a balcony overlooking their stage. The soldiers are partly chosen for their height, but appear to be even taller with their elaborate, birdlike headdress.

Over the next hour I am wowed with a synergy of high-kicking and preening as the soldiers demonstrate their prowess in flexibility. Simultaneously, there is a similar performance on the Pakistani side which you can also partially view depending on your seat. The soldiers wag their fists in defiance and twist their testosterone-fueled mustaches as they stare into Pakistan.

Two female soldiers lead the way to the border gate.

Then magically, the border gates from both countries in unison are slid open by the special forces soldiers.

An Indian and Pakistan soldier approach each other and in a split moment make eye contact and firmly clasp hands in a sign of brotherhood. I wonder to myself how this is coordinated? Do they talk to each other, practice together?

Then the dance-off begins in earnest, as soldiers from both sides face off within inches in a crescendo of high kicks punctuated with fist waving. Chests are puffed and mustaches are twisted. It is like an elaborate mating ritual. It is easily over 110 F but nothing is being held back.

Next up is a highly coordinated and choreographed flag lowering ceremony. Both an Indian and Pakistani soldier begin a series of movements that are timed with each other as the flags are lowered. The flags are steadily but slowly lowered in unison. More dance-offs take place on both sides during the flag ceremony.

A bugler brings his trumpet to his lips and within a moment both flags are lowered and hastily gathered and folded by their respective sides. The soldiers march off with their precious cargo.

The gates are slid back to their closed position. The border is closed and not to be opened until the following morning.

I stream out of the stadium with hundreds of amped up Indians. In dusk, the street is filled with vendors of food and souvenirs. I make my way to my waiting taxi to head back to Amritsar with echoes of India zindabad.

The Pakistani Side

I cruise in my car with my driver from the hustle and bustle of Lahore to the Pakistani side of the border. It is another steamy night and I am thankful for my VIP parking, which means I have a brief walk to the stadium. Things are relatively more sedate and relaxed on the Pakistani side compared to the Indian stadium. The crowd is significantly smaller in Pakistan.  Giant, competing flags stand guard.

With the smaller and more relaxed atmosphere I am granted better access. Surprisingly, there was no passport checks or even security checks for me. I am escorted into the stadium and led to a smartly, black and red clad Pakistani Ranger, who is situated near the border gates. The cameras click, and I am now the content owner of my own photo with a Pakistani Ranger. It was not dissimilar to arriving at your home team’s ballpark and snagging a photo with your favorite short stop.

On the Pakistan side, foreigners are also privileged to sit in the VIP section as well.  Compared to India, there were only a handful of westerners.  With my guide’s connection, I am literally sitting in the front row. I traveled with Untamed Borders in Pakistan and one of the benefits of their expertise was the VIP parking and seating. My view was good on the Indian side, but even better in Pakistan.

Things were a bit different here. There was no dancing. In fact, it seemed like there was a lack of colors. I stared into the “bleachers” and noted it was populated solely with men. There were some women in the stadium but only located in the VIP area.

I took my seat in the front row and took in the scene. Two men dressed in green and white clasped Pakistani flags and were responsible for pumping up the crowd. I kept looking for their t-shirt guns but was to be disappointed. They scurried from side to side, robustly waving their flags, exciting the crowd.

Two, equally as bad-ass Pakistani Rangers appeared and marched to the gate to take their positions.

On the Pakistani balcony, a group of Pakistani Rangers stood with their ostentatious black headgear. The cheers erupted as the master of ceremonies bellowed out Pakistan zindabad.

And with that, I was able to see the theatrics on the Pakistani side. The soldiers high-stepped into position. And I now witnessed all of the high stepping and preening that I was able to watch on the Indian side.

And some moustache wrangling.

Watching the flag lowering from the Pakistani side.

The evening came to an end, and it was another amazing experience.

What You Need To Know When Visiting Wagah Ceremony From Pakistan India

From India

What to bring

Bring your passport

In summer, bring a hat and sunscreen.

You can buy water and snacks at the ceremony.

Do not bring your bag.

I brought a large camera (Sony a7riii) and had no issues.

There were no issues with my GoPro with a clamp.

I was carrying a gimbal for my mobile phone which was initially not allowed. With some begging, security let me in.

How to get there

You can take a private taxi from Amritsar to the border for around 1200-1500 Rupees. This will also include their wait time.

The drive is approximately 45 minutes and 30 km.

There is a rickshaw you can hire that brings you from the parking lot to near the gate for 30 Rupees.

From Pakistan

What to bring

You should bring your passport.

If you go during the summer, bring a hat and sunscreen.  It is crazy hot!

In the stadium, you can purchase drinks and snacks.

Leave your bag at the hotel or car.

I carried a large camera (Sony a7riii) with no issues.

There was no issues with GoPro and a clamp.

I brought a gimbal for my mobile phone and had no issues.

How to get there

I went with Untamed Borders but you can get a taxi. A taxi will cost approximately 4000 Rupees.

The drive is about 45 minutes and 30 km.

When

From October to March, the ceremony begins at 4:30 pm.

From April to September, the ceremony begins at 5:30 pm.

Of course, doublecheck when you are there in regard to the timing.

FYI

Mobile phone networks are blocked at the border for security purposes. So make sure you keep track of the people you travel with you or where your taxi drive is parked.

Entry is free to the ceremony.

What you need to know when visiting Wagah Ceremony from Pakistan India.

What you need to know when visiting Wagah Ceremony from Pakistan India.

What you need to know when visiting Wagah Ceremony from Pakistan India.

And make sure you check out the amazing, must-see Golden Temple in Amritsar.

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