Visiting Behesht Zahra, Martyr’s Cemetery. War is savage. Brutal. The aftermath of this savageness is displayed in full at the Behesht Zahra cemetery outside of Tehran. These losses are the results of a nearly 8 year war between neighbors Iran and Iraq. Over 200,000 martyrs are laid to rest in this sprawling cemetery. Another one million [...]
Visiting the Grand Bazaar in Tehran. Corridor after passage after hallway snakes around for over 10 km in length. It is a simple process to get lost. I am floundering, but enjoying myself in the Grand Bazaar of Tehran. Tehran is the incredibly busting capital of Iran. Over 16 million people are jammed into this vast [...]
Visiting the Ayatollah in Iran. I have had some surreal travel experiences during my travels. I have visited the DMZ from an observation deck in North Korea, I have slept over in Chernobyl, and spent a couple of days exploring a country that does not even exist on the edge of Europe, Transnistria. While visiting Iran, [...]
Entering Iran. Not quite business class, but almost felt like an Economy Plus seat. I stretched my feet in the bulkhead area and luxuriated over the two adjacent empty but faded seats. I twisted my head and peered behind me. Head scarves and dark, cheap suits stared back at me. I was the only westerner on [...]
“Down with USA”. I stared at the mural. What did they mean? Down with the USA, like I hope the country becomes a fiery apocalypse? Or, like, yeah, I am down with the USA, they are AOK in my book. This is a conflicting message that travelers are continually confronted with when visiting Iran. At first [...]
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